Crate Training in Two Easy Steps

Crate Training In Two Easy Steps

By LukEli K-9, Dog Training and Behavior Modification Specialist

Ha! I got you there. That blog headline got you thinking “Wow. Only two steps? I’ve got to check that out!” but NOTHING in dog training is done in two easy steps, so don’t fall for that one again!

Ok, so you’ve decided that crate training is right for you and your family and you’ve picked out the appropriate crate for your dog. The next step is to help your dog acclimate to the crate. Done incorrectly, crate training can create separation anxiety in dogs and start or increase barking. When done correctly, Fido will learn that great things happen when he is in his crate and will gladly choose to hang out quietly in his cozy den soon enough. First things first:

ACCLIMATING YOUR DOG TO THE CRATE

When bringing home and assembling your crate, try to do so while your dog is out of sight. For some dogs, the sights and sounds of the big, noisy monster that you’re fussing over as you try to figure out how to put it together are enough to convince them they want nothing to do with the crate. Bring it in, set it up, then let your dog in to investigate the new addition to the room. If you’re lucky, your dog will run right in the crate and plop down like he’s been wondering what took you so long to bring him a den.

Momma Pitty Pumpkin loves her kennel. Click here for the story
of her and her sweet pups, still in search of their forever home

If you’re not so lucky, don’t try to get him to go in yet unless you’re ready with two things: patience and some tasty treats. Leave the door open and toss a treat inside (you can also include a cue if you want your dog to go to their crate on cue). Most dogs will respond to this luring and enter the crate to get the treat. If your dog is the more anxious type, you may have to start smaller by throwing a treat near the crate, then near the door, then just inside, etc., until you can get your dog entering freely without concern. There are dogs that require more in depth counter-conditioning before they feel comfortable with crates. If you have such a dog, I advise you seek the advice of a dog training professional for tips more specifically tailored to your particular situation.

Leave the crate door open or remove it for a day or two (if you’re able to leave your dog uncrated for that length of time, if not give it a couple of hours at the minimum) and feed your dog their meals in the crate during this time. You can make the crate more inviting by putting a blanket or dog bed inside. Be sure to always leave your dog with a couple of safe chew toy options in their crate so they don’t get bored and decide to eat their bedding! Unless your vet recommends it, don’t leave water in the crate while the dog is enclosed in the crate because they’ll just end up with a full bladder or they can make a wet mess of everything inside when drinking or playing in their water (makes it hard to tell if they urinated in the crate as well).

  

Once they feel fairly comfortable entering the crate, try closing the door briefly (a few seconds) while praising your dog and/or offer them a treat, then open it again and let them out. Repeat this process while gradually increasing the length of time the dog remains in the crate and increasing the distance you move from the crate as well. Eventually, you will be able to leave your dog for hours and they will happily nap or gnaw away the time until your return.

My dog chooses to sleep in her crate even when she’s not confined to it because she likes it that much. Your dog will too if you put the necessary time and effort in up front. However, you and your dog may first have to go through an “adjustment period”. Which brings me to the next subheading.

DON’T GIVE IN TO YOUR DOG’S BARKING AND WHINING

Simply put, dogs do what works. If, when they bark and whine after you put them in their crate at night, you: come yell at them, let them out, take them outside, your other pet goes and checks on them, or any other number of possible interactions, they learn what? That barking and whining get them the reinforcement (you could call it attention too) they want. It doesn’t matter whether it’s positive or negative, it’s still reinforcement. You must ignore all the noise from them. That’s the way it stops most quickly and permanently. It’s called behavior extinction. Unrewarding behavior is not continued by the dog (or anyone, for that matter. That’s why I switched careers after 18 years: it was no longer rewarding!).

Easy enough, right? I will now tell you the secret to crate training. This really is it. Pay attention now. Ready? Here ya go; When the going gets tough and the dog just won’t be quiet, STAY STRONG. You can’t give in!  If you do, that sweet little pooch will start crying and howling with a renewed vigor you wouldn’t think is possible because hey, it worked yesterday, maybe it’ll work today, too. IGNORE it. I know you can do it!

If you wait long enough and consistently do not reinforce the behavior, your dog’s barking and whining behavior will become extinct. When a dog nears the end of this extinction process they may go through a brief period of increasingly agitated behavior display called an extinction burst.

The extinction burst sneaks up on you when you least expect it. Just when it seems like your dog has finally started to calm down in their crate and the duration of their vocalizations has steadily decreased, that’s when Fido’s unholy howls of displeasure will reach a crescendo that will strike terror into your sleepless heart with a ferocity unrivaled by any that came before him.

  

Fear not! This increase in behavior is the harbinger of doom, the death knell of Fido’s barking and whining in the crate. He’s desperately giving it one more shot before he gives up on the tactic altogether. If you’ve made it to this point, you’re in the final battle. Congratulations! Don’t forget to ask me about spontaneous recovery, though. You may want to be aware of that potentially nasty little surprise. Remember, it’s very important that you reward your dog for quiet, calm behavior. Reinforce that behavior consistently and your dog will start to display it more often!

I’ve known dogs that sounded like they were about to be murdered by a gang of cats any second who vocalized for HOURS every night for a month. I’ve also known dogs who, after a whimper or two, never made another sound in their crate. I have had my patience thoroughly tested, I assure you. I know it can be tough, so finally, I will add this:

TIPS AND TRICKS TO KEEP YOUR DOG’S VOCALIZATIONS TO A MINIMUM

WHILE CRATE TRAINING

Here are a few things you can do to help minimize your dog’s and your own stress levels:

1.  Fill a Kong toy with peanut butter and freeze. Give the toy at bedtime to keep your dog occupied for a bit and create a positive association with the crate.

2.  Keep the crate in your room while sleeping. It’s not entirely natural for dogs to be separated from their “pack”. It’s more stressful for a dog to be forced to sleep isolated from the family.

3.  Leaving a radio or tv on with the volume down low can help soothe anxious dogs.

4.  Sometimes placing a soft stuffed animal in with a puppy can help them feel better, though care must be taken that they don’t chew it up and swallow any part of it.

5.  The most important tip: ALWAYS make the crate a positive experience for your pup. Never use it as punishment. When placing the dog in their crate for a “time out” (for you or them) always reward them for entering, regardless of the circumstances leading to them going in the crate

Crate training is a great tool for potty training as well. We’ll talk about potty training in an upcoming blog.

Until then, good luck with your crate training. Post any questions you may have!